The "Hechtspeed Hatch" suspension and wheel install

Another big update on the Hechtspeed Hatchback! The last post I talked through the process of selecting the first round of mods for the '99 Civic DX Hatchback. This post is to walk through the install process and initial suspension setup.

Let's see...the first thing I did after enjoying a Junior High awards ceremony and then a 6th Grade graduation ceremony and then lunch at In-N-Out with the middle 2 boys was to take the 949Racing 6UL wheels and Hankook Ventus V2 205/50/15 tires to Burt Brothers Tires in Farmington. They're kind of the only game in town. The tire dude was diggin' the wheels. He knew what they were. He said he started out with Hondas (I assume he meant Civics and Integras) and now has an S2000, which I peeked in the parking lot. Anyway, I got the tires mounted on the wheels and balanced.

949 Racing 6UL wheels (15x7 +36mm) freshly mounted with Hankook Ventus V2 205/50/15 tires.

I rolled them into the garage and leaned them up against stuff so they wouldn't roll away. The bummer was later that afternoon I realized that all the balancing weights had fallen off the wheels.

Ha Ha wheel weights with "not-so-sticky" adhesive

Like, really Burt Bros. I ran them over that afternoon and they re-balanced and added weights again. I wasn't done yet. That night I was mounting up the wheels and found one more wheel with weights sitting on the garage floor. hhhhhhh I put the wheel on anyway and ended up driving it like that to work. I could feel the vibration so I took the car in the next morning before work and had them balance and add weights. Kind of a hassle. I'll be honest, its really nice having a tire shop so close to home, but they've kind of messed up a lot of stuff for me through the years. But, they've been good in making the errors up for me. They have pretty good customer service.

The original visit was quick, like 30 minutes. I got home and got the car jacked up for the first time. The rear was pretty easy. I put my nice Costco jack under the rear subframe. I love my new jack! The 90's Civic's have nice metal tabs at the 4 corners to jack up the car. So, I threw jackstands under the rear tabs. I removed the rear stock wheels/tires.

Step 1, get car up on jackstands and remove stockies

I borrowed a torque wrench from the "Car Nuts" crew. Thanks Shawn!!! You can see it in the picture.

 Quick picture for the driver side front with the stock spring and shock assembly and front upper control arm removed.

I took a picture of the passenger side to see how the factory did the cotter pin on the ball-joint castle nut.

 Here's my attempt at getting the Skunk2 Pro Series Plus UCA (Upper Control Arm) to the same length as the stock UCA. It was about 6.5" from center of the mounting to the end of the ball-joint. Later I ended up changing this just a little to give it more camber. I read that the rear suspension gains more negative camber than the fronts when a car is lowered. So, due to that, I wanted to start off with stock length UCAs. I wasn't planning to go crazy low on ride height and I wanted to gain some negative camber, so that was my plan.

 Here's me measuring the difference in length of the Buddy Club Sport Spec coilover as compared to the stock assembly. It's about 3" shorter. I wasn't sure if this was going to translate into a 3" lowering of the ride height. It ended up lowering it about 2" or so.

Here is the driver side all installed. 

Here's the driver side with the new wheel/tire mounted up. Love the red and white combo!!!

Another shot, this time the passenger side. I made sure to clean the crap out of the wheel well area with brake cleaner and simple clean and a wet rag. 

 I tried finding info on how to remove the rear trunk trim and panels. I couldn't find any. So, I started unbolting stuff. haha I figured it out. I need to make an access door to be able to get to the top of the shock to make damper adjustments. This is much too big a hassle to make adjustments. I have the dampers set to 12 of 20 on the stiffness scale. 20 being the full stiff setting.

Here's the passenger rear installed. I also tried to clean up the whole area, wiping down the trailing arm, lower control arm and stuff. 

For the rear Skunk2 UCAs I measured them and went a little longer than stock knowing that it was going to gain negative camber as I lowered it. The rears ended up being lowered almost exactly 2". I can't remember how much longer, maybe 1/2"? 

Just a quick picture of the garage scene with the tools and parts laying around. Love the little magnet LED flashlights. I have 2 light bulbs for garage lighting, so I rely on an a shop light and these little LED flashlights.

Here is the Hechtspeed Hatchie down on all 4's after the install. 

Here it is a block away at the Church parking lot. The initial setup was too low. It rubbed like crazy up front just driving slowly down my street. So, it needed to be raised up.

I had baseball games to go to so I ended up working on it in the afternoon. It only took me 2 hours to get it back up on jackstands and adjust the front ride height +0.75". The initial camber was very little. So, when raising it up I added 1/8" of more negative camber as measured by how much I moved the UCA in.

Not sure if you can see the black permanent marker marks I made to show where I started from the original setting. I didn't measure but guess this was about 1/8". I loosened the 4 allen bolts enough to tape the ball-joint over the same amount on both sides. 

Last 2 shots for tonight. Raising the car up .75" up front and setting the shocks to 15 of 20 solved all rubbing up front. No fender rolling or trimming of plastic required. Would it look cooler lower with more camber. Yes. But, I'm looking for some practicality and being able to drive the car hard in corners and have 0 rubbing. 

This install all told took me about 12 hours. I did it 100% solo with all hand tools. It was pretty fun. No cussing occurred. Nothing broke. I struggled with the very last rear UCA bolts for about 20 minutes, making sure I did not strip them in the chassis threads. Overall, it was a total success and very satisfying to do myself. 

EK Hatch Wheels and Suspension Parts ordered: How I decided on what to buy

Major Update on the EK Hatch!!!
Wheels are ordered! errr....wheels have arrived!
Instead of Konig Hypergram or Dekagram I went with 949Racing 6UL 15x7 +36mm in Ti02 Titanium Oxide (aka white)!!! After I found this picture of a red EK Hatch DX just like mine with the stock black side molding and side skirt with white Rays Gram Light 57DRs in 15x8 I was hooked. I spent a couple days trying to figure out how I could make those wheels, which are $1200 for a set happen. I was in love with that look (the red with white and that wheel design). I knew I wanted to spend money on quality suspension (which I get into below) and so I needed to find a more affordable white wheel I loved. The Konig Dial In was the first one I looked at but I didn't like the spoke and wheel design. It's cool, just wasn't loving it. I had trouble finding 6UL wheels, 949Racing.com was basically almost sold out in any color.

949Racing 6UL wheels in 15x7 +36mm 10.6lbs have arrived at the Hechtspeed "shop"

I found FlyinMiata.com had 15x7 in white. I texted my wife right then a picture of the red and white EK hatch with the Gram Lights and then a picture of a blue EG hatch with white 15" 6UL and asked if she could photoshop the 6UL onto the red EK. She's so talented!!! Check it out!

Roma Red EK Hatch with white Gram Light 57DR

Blue EG Hatch with Ti02 Titanium white 949Racing 6UL 15"

949Racing 6UL Titanium white (Ti02) photoshop onto a Roma Red EK Hatch DX

I just ordered up suspension parts! I'll put the details below...
As I said in my previous post I have been doing a bunch of research on what coilovers to buy. I narrowed my final 3 down to Buddy Club Sport Spec, K-Tuned K1 and Ksport Kontrol Pro. These were all about $900 for the set. See below for my comparison spreadsheet I put together to help me in my decision:

The Hechtspeed EK Hatch coilover comparison

In my research I tried to boil down the descriptions on the many websites into a couple key metrics so I could compare my options. I wanted to know spring rates, dampening adjustment, twintube or monotube, price and any other key features. The Ksport Kontrol Pro was the cheapest. I found it for $740. But, it has the softest spring rates (not by ton mind you, they were 9.8k / 5k) and the most dampening adjustment (36-way). I don't necessarily consider more "clicks" better. Ksport is a decent company that has been around for probably 10 years. But, nothing stands out here except the price and I was not wanting to make my decision based purely on that.

The second option and the one I was leaning toward the most was the K-Tuned K1. The K1's have 10k/6k spring rates and probably the most YouTube video reviews out of the 3. K1's have 32-way adjustment. As I mentioned in my previous post, the Speed Academy guys did a nice series on the black EK coupe K swapped track/street project and they had good things to say about this one. They ended up swapping to K2's (20k/16k spring rates) I guess because the car ended up more a track car than a street car.

The third option was Buddy Club Sport Specs. Spring rates for the Buddy Clubs are 10k/7k and 20-20-way adjustment. The Buddy Clubs are "Made in Japan" and have the longest history as a company. Initially I found these for $925 on deftmotion.com. I had already chosen Skunk2 UCAs from jhpusa.com and asked jhpusa if they would price match. I was happy to get an email the next morning saying they would price them at $898 for me. If you look on their site now they are priced at $898 for everyone! Your welcome! Go check them out JHPUSA Buddy Club SPORT SPECS

All 3 systems use Monotube shock design. This was one of the final details I found a few days ago. I google searched "monotube vs twintube" after I started noticing some kits with the two different optioons and learned some helpful information. I learned that monotube shocks are better suited for performance driving while twin tube are better for ride quality. The reasons are responsiveness to bumps, fade of the performance of the shock as it performs over time and long term consistency of that performance.

strutmasters.com Monotube vs Twin tube shock article was super helpful

The Strutmasters.com article is short and sweet (unlike my blogs)! CLICK HERE The last comment on mono vs twin tube is it appears some of the cheaper coilovers utilize twin tube as a way to give very lowered cars a more comfortable ride and save on cost. Neither of which are what I'm looking for.

I found a really helpful article from the Speed Academy guys called "Track Alignment Specs: EG/EK Honda Civic & DC2 Integra". Not only does it give some good pointers on setup but helps explain what the Honda unequal length double wishbone suspension is doing when you're pushing your Honda hard in corners.

Speed Academy EG/EK/DC2 Track Alignment article

One of the helpful tidbits was that my hatch does not need a lot of initial static camber because as the unequal length double wishbone suspension compresses, it gains negative camber naturally. Give the article a look and CLICK HERE

So, what did I choose? I went with the Buddy Club Sport Specs from jhpusa.com!!! So excited!!!

Buddy Club Sport Spec coilover kit for 92-00 Civic and 92-97 Del Sol

I think the blue springs and red shock body color scheme is cool!

I went with Skunk2 Pro Series Plus UCAs (Upper Control Arms) for camber adjustability as well as the benefits of having more direct and solid mounts and bushings. I ended up getting the rears from jhpusa.com along with the Buddy Clubs. They were not offering (even though I asked and they said they couldn't) free shipping for the front arms so I ended up finding those on kseriesparts.com for the same price with free shipping. No biggy. The internet now allows me to drop $1271 in a matter of minutes with no hassle.

Skunk2 rear Pro Series Plus camber kit

The Skunk2's have a great racing heritage with the Honda/Acura crowd. The Skunk2 rear control arm is different than all the other 88-00 Civic choices. The difference is in the construction and design of the ends of the arm. All the other designs are a "butt-welded" bushing case to the adjustable middle section at a 90 deg angle. But, these Skunk2's have a beefier and smoother transition. The butt-welded variety just looked weaker and a potential crack point.

The Skunk2 fronts have camber adjustment from the bottom for easier access. Here is the blurb from Skunk2: Each Pro Series Plus Camber Kit includes three-piece, low-deflection, polyurethane bushings that eliminate the pre-load typically associated with rubber bushings, allowing the arms to pivot freely, dramatically improving handling performance. Pro Series Plus Camber Kits also feature Skunk2s all-new, one-piece, forged Pro Series Ball Joints, which feature low-profile top plates for additional clearance between themselves and the shock towers, higher clamping loads for no-slip performance, and a unique design that allows for maximum adjustability. 

So, there you have it. I'm super excited to get all this stuff installed! Can't wait for how the car is going to look and how its going to handle.

Change the entire car with one thing

Yes, wheels can change the look of a car and the tires can play a big part of the handling but that's not the one thing that changes the entire car. Suspension and ride height are what determine the look and handling and overall character of a car. That's what I'm getting into today with this post.
First a quick run down of what suspension I've had on previous cars:
My 1972 bug had stock rear suspension and the front beam suspension with 3-4 splines removed. It dropped the front end probably 2-3 inches and gave it that "hot rod" raked look. It was bouncy but looked cool.
My 1995 Civic EX coupe started out totally stock. Within a year and a half I had Eibach Sportline springs (given to me by my friend) and KYB AGX adjustable shocks and struts. This setup was awesome for the price and simplicity. The parts were good quality and worked well. The adjustability of the KYBs was really nice to have. I was able to feel the difference from soft to hard.
My 1995 Mustang GT had Eibach Pro-kit and I don't remember if it had anything other than stock shocks. I never really pushed this car in corners.
My 1998 Civic LX sedan was totally stock.
My 2002 WRX originally came with Goldline lowering springs and KYB GR2 (non-adjustable) shocks. This was a nice setup for the daily commute and spirited drive. I wanted to get more aggressive so I replaced them with BC BR Coilovers with 8k f/6k r springs and adjustable shocks. I had these installed at Innovative Garage in Salt Lake. I also had them install a bumpsteer kit. This setup changed the entire car. I also had a fairly aggressive alignment. It was lowered more as well. I had 17x9 +35mm Rota Grids with 245/40/17 tires. I did take this to a W.O.W (Wide Open Wednesday) event at Miller Motorsports Park which included an autox area. What a hoot! After getting the coilovers and enjoying the new ride I will never want to go with anything else.
My Fit was dead stock too.
My BMW 330ci had the H&R Sport Cup Kit (lowering springs and shocks/struts). This was a very nice setup as well. Stiffer and lower than stock but not very aggressive. I did an autox event with it like this. A little too much bodyroll but very nice for the daily drive.

So, in the past 20 years (whoa, I'm getting old) I've had many different cars and suspensions. These have all been my daily drivers. Obviously a track dedicated car will be a different discussion. For a daily car though, for me personally, I like a stiffer suspension than what the average lowering spring and sport shock can offer. Especially if you want to drive a car hard, like at an autox event or attacking some canyons, you're going to want stiffer springs and good quality dampening. This setup gets even more important when you run aggressive wide wheels and tires. I ran into this with my bimmer. I went aggressive in the rear with 18x9.5 +35mm and 265/35/18. After I first got the wheels/tires installed, I drove it to work. It was rubbing on some bigger bumps. I then invested in a heat gun and fender roller. I rolled the fenders and gave them a mini-pull. There was a mounting screw that I trimmed as well. All that work helped but I still heard a very slight "squeak" noise on big bumps. I found that the tire was rubbing on the edge of the bumper. If my suspension was stiffer there likely wouldn't be any tire to bumper contact due to the reduced suspension travel of a stiffer spring rate.
So, as I plan out what I want to do with the Civic, I will be getting some quality coilovers. There are many options for the 90's Civics. This chassis (88-00 civic, 94-01 integra) likely has THE largest selection of springs, shocks and coilovers than any other make/model. You can buy anything from $30 lowering springs or $200 "Racing Coilovers" from eBay all the way up to $5000 JRZ coilovers. For a street car like mine that will see mostly normal driving duties with some occasional aggressive driving and maybe 2 or 3 autox events each year it doesn't make sense to go very expensive. For me the sweet spot for street car coilovers is about the $1000-$1500 range. In this range you get quality construction for long lasting performance. You also get adjustability with dampening and ride height. This allows me to soften up the shocks for a trip down to St. George for a baseball tournament and then the next weekend stiffen it back up for an autox event. The ride height adjustability allows me to dial in the "look" or "stance" I want along with optimizing the setup for best handling and ground clearance. Having an adjustable setup you could go "show low" and raise it back up for daily driving. While that availability is there, I'm not interested in changing my ride height. I plan to get it where I want it and leave it there. Personally I don't want to have rubbing issues. I need to be able to put kids in the car along with some baseball gear. I had the rubbing issue with my bimmer and don't want to deal with that again. My personal preference on the "look" I want is not super slammed anyway. I prefer the "track" look with the top of the tire about even with the fender edge or a slight gap.
The most important first consideration is what brand are the coilovers. I don't want a no-name brand that has no history nor will back up any quality issues. Reliability and quality are important. In considering the options in the sweet spot of $1000-1500 one of the things I'm looking at is what the spring rates are for the different systems. My experience with the BC coilovers on my WRX was very positive. Those were 8k and 6k. I do remember reading that different suspension designs have different needs for a given performance level when it comes to spring rates. McPherson struct type design doesn't work the same as double-wishbone like my Civic has. I need to do more research to understand the differences. It has something to do with the geometry of the different designs and the "swing path" the specific geometries generate. Maybe I'll dive into that world a little and report back what I find.

Ground Control/Koni coilovers-tried and true go-to suspension for the Honda community for years!

BC Type BR coilovers. BC coils have become a great entry level coilover option. I was happy with the set I had on my WRX.

So, let's get to the options I'm looking at for the '99 EK Hatch, in no particular order.
First we have the big names who have been in the suspension tuning world for a long time. This includes companies like Buddy Club, Tein, Skunk2, Apex'i and Ground Control. For the Honda world, I know the Ground Control system is very popular and well liked one. It includes Eibach springs on an adjustable coilover design and uses Koni Yellow shocks with different valving. I found this system for sale in the $700-900 range. Just did a quick search and people are running various different spring rates.

K-Tuned K1 Coilovers-found them cheapest on jhpusa.com

The Speed Academy guys ran K-Tuned K1 and K2 coilovers on their project Civic EK Coupe. This car is essentially the same as mine. The K1 kits I've found for $900 and run 10k and 6k spring rates with adjustable dampening. The K2 Circuit is 20k and 16k with different dampening valving.  The K2 goes for about $1500-1700. I found a few decent video reviews on YouTube for both. While the "racer" in me would love to run the K2 I think its just too stiff for my needs. Plus its another $600-700 more cost. I am definitely trying to get the most for my money. I have other parts I want to do on my Civic in this first year or so. So, any money I can save will go a long way to the overall look and performance of my EK.
Another option is BC coilovers. With my success using the BCs on my WRX, I would be happy to get a set for my Civic.
I'll tell you, I'm leaning towards the K-tuned K1's. The price is right. $900 is very affordable for what I'm trying to achieve. Also, I really like what I've seen from K-Tuned on all their Honda parts. They are a company dedicated to Honda's and so for me, the fact that they specialize in this certain type of car means they're invested in making good quality parts. and are designing them specific for these cars. I also really respect the Speed Academy guys and their opinions on parts they test.
So, I am pretty much decided on the K1's.
I have more research to do on what alignment settings I should do. I went too aggressive on my WRX when I had the BC coilovers. I had too much wear from the toe out. I went with the suggestion of Innovative Garage. It was not an issue with their work or the alignment. I found that the tire wear was too much for my commute. It caused my tires to wear sooner than I wanted. I found that the camber was not necessarily the issue. The issue was the toe out (I ran 1/16" I believe). It helps in turn in but when normal driving, it scrubs the tires on the inside tread. So, for the EK I'm planning to be more in the 0 toe out. More to come on what alignment I should go with. I believe I'll need to get adjustable upper control arms to be able to adjust camber front and rear. If I stick to about a 2" drop I may not need to get camber adjustability. Like I said, more to come there.

EK hatch = the Daily Racecar

Blogging 2 nights in a row? Are you feeling alright?  ;)

Might as well keep going while I'm motivated to write.

So, what is it like to drive a 90's commuter car? LOL It's slow! I've never owned super fast or powerful cars. But, going from 230hp in 3300lbs (330ci bimmer) to a 106hp in 2300lbs ('99 EK hatchback) is a big change. The bimmer was also lowered and BMW also has the "Ultimate Driving Machine" going for it. Did you see the weight difference? 1000 lbs!!! This is one of the big factors in my decision to get back into a Honda.  Add lightness! Weight kills driving feel. Also #slowcarfast! It's more enjoyable to drive a car closer to its maximum effort than to hold back on a faster car.
I'm having so much fun driving this Civic around town. It takes more thought and planning to pass people on the freeway. It's fun to take corners. The light nimbleness is just fun!
The other detail is the Honda transmission and its shifter feel. My bimmer had a $300 nice quality shifter. This stock 20 year old SUPER light feel shifter is soooooo much fun!!! I can't really explain it. It's so light weight. You can flick it around. It's like this musical instrument that you can precisely and carefully maneuver around from gear to gear. The engine is so quick to rev that you can rev match so easily and quickly with the flick of the wrist. It puts a smile on my face.

The post needed a picture up towards the top. Here is the range of colors that Konig has for the Hypergram! I've already done Matte Grey on my bimmer. Maybe its on to Race Bronze next for my "daily racecar"?

The other thing I realized as I was thinking about what car to get next and as I test drove the Civic and then got back in the bimmer and then began driving the Civic is I'm not the right type of driver or personality to own a Mustang or any of the more powerful cars. My bro is a 'Stang guy. He loves getting aggressive in canyons and letting the tail hang out. He is less cautious you could say LOL. That kind of driving and mentality is rewarded by cars like Mustangs, rwd, torquey, higher power, heavier chassis, bigger and wider chassis. I just plain don't have the guts to hang the tail out. I'm a scaredy cat! I seriously owned a rwd car with over 200hp for 3 years and never got it sideways! I never did a burnout! Heresy, I know! I did like less than 10 drag launches in those 3 years. The traction control was annoying. But you can turn it off and I hardly ever turned it off.
I'm more of a "grip" driver. I like to stay in the lines. I like the details, I like to be precise. I feel like light FF (front engine, front wheel drive) cars fit that personality. I also like the "David and Goliath" ethos, the "Giant killer"(If you're wondering what Giants any Hondas have killed, just go review how the Hondas have done in Global Time Attack events in Australia!). I like to do more with less. I like efficiency. Light cars like Civics are known as "momentum" cars. You can't rely on your right foot to make up for mistakes. You have to nail the apex to carry your speed through to the next turn. I like the planning and thinking behind getting it right.
The first thing to address with the Civic then is not the engine. I could spend $1000 on the D16 single cam 4 pot and it would maybe make 140-150hp. It's simply not worth investing in. A turbo kit on the stock block would probably get it up to 175hp or so for like $3000 or so. Honestly not a horrible option, but now I've just added weight (turbo, intercooler, piping) and its all on the nose of the car. For the same cost, I could swap in a B series engine and get the same power level and have 1000 more rpm to play with.
No, the engine is not where I'll be focusing. The suspension and wheels and tires are "Stage 1".
Let's start with wheels. I'll definitely be going with 15". These are the most plentiful and cost effective. I personally prefer the look of 15" with 205/50/15 tires over 16" with 205/40/16. This second 16" option is exactly what I had on my first Civic (aka Jackie Chan). It looks good, don't get me wrong. Over time its not the look I like.

"Jackie Chan" was my first Japanese car, first Civic. It's a '95 EX Coupe. These were 16x7 +40mm Nippon wheels I bought off of eBay for like $400. The tires were 205/40/16 Sumitomo HTR's I believe. I bought this car in 2001. This picture was 2003 in Glendora, Calif. The suspension was Eibach Sportlines with KYB AGX adjustable shocks. This was a really good setup.  I loved this car. Hhhhhh....

I'm definitely a fan of the "JDM style" of build for Hondas. I'm also a huge track and autox fan. I like the "meaty tire" look. It looks purposeful and mean! It also makes the most practical sense for drivability and makes the most functional sense in that its the best way to build a car to be driven hard and for cornering. I can appreciate the "stance" look just like I dig super low hot rods and customs and even lowriders. I can appreciate the look and work that is involved. But, my personal style (and budget) is the functional, meaty stance.
So, first things first, I need to get some wheels. The black 14x5 steelies with plastic 90's hubcaps are not doing it for me. They're ugly obviously and they are hard, balloony all-season tires and they have no feel or grip. 185/65/14 tires have a tall sidewall.

Ugly 14" steelies with hubcaps!

Originally when I began my search, I really wanted to do 15x8 or even 15x8.5. For tires I really wanted to do 225/50 or 225/45 for that extra meaty look and Kanjo style with white lettering. Like this...

Kanjo style EK Civic with "Advan Yokohama" tire lettering

So, both my Civics had knockoff wheels. Nippon F5 are Desmond Regamaster copies. Those were on my '95 EG coupe. Then I had Rota Grids which are Volk TE37 copies on my '98 EK sedan.

My '98 EK Sedan with 16x7 Rota Grids with 215/40/16 tires on stock suspension.  Dig the pinstripe? Nope, me neither!! Don't ever buy from a ghetto used car dealer like First Class Cars. :(

After owning some knockoff Chinese wheels, (my WRX also had Rota Grids) I wanted to try and get some quality wheels. I bought Konig Hypergrams for my bimmer after watching the Speed Academy Civic track build vlog series. The Speed Academy guys explained that the Konigs are light, strong and affordable. That's my perfect combination. Sure, I'd love some rare Japanese wheels. I'd love some real Volks TE37s or Enkei RPF1s, but I simply can't afford those. In my search for Civic wheels, I started with Konigs again. I also really like the 949 Racing 6UL wheels. After looking around, they seem to be backordered everywhere I searched. They're also more expensive than Konigs. Not by a ton but they're more. As I said, I was first wanting to go aggressive. I wanted 15x8 or 15x8.5. But again, I pulled up the Speed Academy vlog series on the black EK coupe and saw that they had a blast on track and a nice meaty tire look with the Konig Hypergram in 15x7.5 +35mm and some sticky 205/50/15's (looks like they did go to a 225/45/15 on front later). THe 15x8/8.5 options from Konig have +25mm offset. That's a little aggressive. Not a ton. You can roll fenders. There are wide fender options. But, like the Speed Academy hosers (they're from Canada eh, take off eh hosehead) they wanted a bolt on wheel. Check it out. Looks great!!

Here's a screenshot from the Speed Academy YouTube vid when they installed the Konig Hypergrams.

 Here is the same wheel on an EG, the Konig Hypergram in Bronze. Love!

Ebay has been my source for wheels all these years. Here is the 15x7.5 +35mm Konig Hypergram in Matte Grey.

...and here is the same wheel in Race Bronze. 

I've purchased 4 sets of wheels/tires from eBay Speed Shop since 2003. I've had great success and great prices! It will be no different here. Discount Tire eBay store sells these Konig Hypergrams for $468 with free shipping. Steal of a deal!!
Now its just deciding if I want Matte Grey or Race Bronze. Hmm... decisions!
For tire, I see 2 paths I can take. I can take the approach I've always taken. Go cheap! For example, on my bimmer I bought Accelera PHI-R tires off eBay. I found 205/50/15 Accelera PHI-R tires for $243 for a set. So cheap!
For this setup (Konig Hypergram + Accelera PHI-R in 15") it will cost $711 plus $60 to mount and balance at Burt Bros. The same setup in 18" for my bimmer was $850 + $400 +$60 = $1310. About double!
The 2nd path would be to pay a little more and get a sticky 200 treadwear tire in 205/50/15. Like the EG picture above running BFG Rivals. There is the Nitto NT01/NT05s, the Federal RSR, the Toyo R888, and so forth. I found the Federal RSR for $350 for a set. Awesome deal! I might have to try that. They won't last as long as other options. The Dunlop Direzza is kind of a middle ground option at 280 treadwear and decent price. That might be my best option actually.

A few inspirational pictures to finish the post...

One of the few EK Hatches I could find with Hypergrams. Here it is in bronze. Very clean EK right here. 

This red EK Hatch is one I found on Instagram Speed Shop owned by "@jdmek7669". This looks like it runs 16" Konig Hypergrams. Those tires are pretty low profile. I have a hard time finding wheel/tire specs online. Nobody posts their setups openly. It's annoying.

Konig Dekagram, my second choice.

The Konig Dekagram was right up there. But, at the same size, this wheel is $100. Not sure why. Great looking wheel. I think a black Dekagram would look great on my red Hatch. Hmm.... should I reconsider?
That's it for tonight. Dream of 15" wheels and 200 tread track tires on your daily! I know I will!

Hello Honda! (again)

I need to do this blogging thing more. It's fun! 

So, yes, I went about 3 years with the BMW and sold it. Shocker, not shocker! My wife says the only thing I can promise is that in 2-3 years I'll want to sell whatever it is I own at the time. LOL sniff sniff...mmm hmm. I can't say anything...that is exactly what has happened. This is my (bug, civic, mustang, civic, wrx, fit, bmw, civic) 8th car! This is the keeper!
Seriously though, this might just be the keeper.
So, what did I buy? I bought a 1999 Honda Civic DX Hatchback in Roma Red with, wait for it...34,498 original Utah miles! I know!!!!! It's like a brand new car!!! It's 20 years old!!! Like "What the Honda!!!!????"
So, here's the story. Utah winter is wrapping up. It's about February, March and I'm starting to itch. My bimmer is running the stock wheels/tires (looks pedestrian), has a ticky noise I can't track down and its been about 3 years. The car has 150k miles and I start to search ksl classifieds. As I mentioned in my bye bye bimmer post, I always start out by looking for a 90's Civic. It's the car I grew up on! I'm hooked to them. They're light, nimble, economical, easy to work on, cheap to mod and on and on. The problem is at this point they are 20-30 years old. They're classic err... Neo Classic cars. They're not a JDM Legend! Which means they're project cars! I don't have time, money, space or tools for a project car!!! The entry price is great! I mean, even I can afford $2000-4000. So, I usually start looking for newer cars. This time I spent much time in the Mustang realm. Especially about 3 weeks ago. My brother told me he was going to be selling his S550 V6 Mustang and would be looking for an S197 (2005-2009) Mustang GT. Those can be had for about $7-12k depending. I was all in to be a Mustang bro again! Utah is not a sports car mecca. With only about 2 million people from Utah County up to Ogden, its like searching for a car in say Irvine/Anaheim but no where else. Not much selection! So, I wasn't finding any good S197 candidates. I started searching for WRXs, Hondas, Acuras and whatever sounded interesting.
I was actually willing to spend more to get a nice B or even K swapped Civic. There's actually one on ksl the past month, a black EG hatch with a K20 swap for $5500. But, its kind of racecar'd out and is not smog legal (it's in Idaho, I don't think smog is required there). I'm just not in a position to buy a project that I can't smog check until I do a bunch of stuff (that I'm not knowledgeable about). That was kind of hard to pass up.
Then I came upon this ksl ad in my 88-2000 civic search.

1999 Honda Civic DX Roma Red-soooooo clean!

 It felt too good to be true!!!

There is photo evidence of the 34k original miles!

 I was just hoping someone who knew how worth $6k this thing was didn't beat me to it!

You can eat off this thing!

Luckily I don't have the money to swap out this thing. It only has 34k miles! What a shame that'd be!

Roll up windows! No Cruise Control! = Add lightness!

A 1999 Honda Civic DX Hatchback, 34k miles, 2 owner, freshly detailed, no mods except a sweet lookin' aluminum Acura 5 speed shift knob for $6000. Huh, that's in my price range! I hadn't even had the serious talk with my wife, which gives me clearance to go hunting for real. So, of course, I texted her a screenshot of the ad and said "can I go see it?". The car has been up for sale for like 1-2 days when I actually text him. I said "Hello, I'm interested in seeing your civic. Would today between 4-5 work for you? Work in Draper, live in Farmington. I could drop by on way home from work. Chris" and then I followed that up 3 hours later with "Hopefully its still for sale. In case you have an offer on the table and you're not fully happy with the offer, please let me know." LOL
I was serious and was willing to go higher if there was another serious buyer. These texts were Wednesday April 24th. He responded that night. He did have other interested people texting him. I was able to go see it Thursday after work.
When I saw it I couldn't believe how like brand new it was. The second owner gave me the whole story. He bought it 4 months prior from the original elderly couple who barely drove it. It sat in a garage for 20 years.
The car is immaculate! It's like a museum piece. There is a part of me that feels bad for driving it. But, its a base model Honda Civic. It's nothing special as it sits. Maybe someday but probably not. There are millions of them still driving around. I just happen to have the cleanest 1999 Honda in the State. haha
I paid $5500 for it. What do you think? The kbb and NADA guides said $3600 and $3800. So, ya, I paid more than the value is estimated at. But, this car is beyond "Excellent Condition". It's also 20 years old, so I probably should have tried to see if a "classic car" guide said something different. I think I got a great deal! 0 problems, basically a new car and the perfect color for a blank Honda canvas!

Holy Cow!!! 34k original miles!!! Insane!!! Yep, I'm a happy Honda car guy right there! 1999 Honda Civic Roma Red Hatchback

This thing shines!!! Kudos to owner #2 for detailing it so well! You sold this car because of your attention to detail1

Me at work taking a selfie with the '99 EK Hatch

Of course, the first thing I had to do when I got to work (nope, didn't do much work that day!) was grab my car guy friends to come take a look!

34,498 original miles at time of purchase on 29APR2019 at about 12:30pm

The 2nd owner was like "I don't think the first owners every looked in here!"

The EK Hatch in its new home!

Of course the first mod was my "JDM Legends" license plate cover. I've had it for like 6 years or more. Just waiting to get something worthy to put it on!

JDM Legends License Plate Cover finally made it on a car of mine! I went with the "red" (DMV lady said, you mean orange?) Utah Ski plate design to "match" the EK hatch

This aluminum Acura shift knob is smooth and light, I love it!!!

I think that's enough for now. It's past my bedtime! Today I was able to get it smogged and registered at the Davis County DMV.
So, this is the blank canvas I've been searching for. I'm excited to own it, to document my ownership as I think this is a unique opportunity to own such a desirable car in the Import/JDM/Tuner community. It's basically a barnfind for Japanese car nuts. It's like finding a 65 Mustang coupe (not a Fastback Shelby, that'd be like if I found a Civic Type-R ) in a garage in like new condition!
I'm currently in research mode. Stage 1 will be wheels/tires and coilovers! Gotta get the ride up to Hechtspeed specifications and some proper wheels and tires. Until then...