First a quick run down of what suspension I've had on previous cars:
My 1972 bug had stock rear suspension and the front beam suspension with 3-4 splines removed. It dropped the front end probably 2-3 inches and gave it that "hot rod" raked look. It was bouncy but looked cool.
My 1995 Civic EX coupe started out totally stock. Within a year and a half I had Eibach Sportline springs (given to me by my friend) and KYB AGX adjustable shocks and struts. This setup was awesome for the price and simplicity. The parts were good quality and worked well. The adjustability of the KYBs was really nice to have. I was able to feel the difference from soft to hard.
My 1995 Mustang GT had Eibach Pro-kit and I don't remember if it had anything other than stock shocks. I never really pushed this car in corners.
My 1998 Civic LX sedan was totally stock.
My 2002 WRX originally came with Goldline lowering springs and KYB GR2 (non-adjustable) shocks. This was a nice setup for the daily commute and spirited drive. I wanted to get more aggressive so I replaced them with BC BR Coilovers with 8k f/6k r springs and adjustable shocks. I had these installed at Innovative Garage in Salt Lake. I also had them install a bumpsteer kit. This setup changed the entire car. I also had a fairly aggressive alignment. It was lowered more as well. I had 17x9 +35mm Rota Grids with 245/40/17 tires. I did take this to a W.O.W (Wide Open Wednesday) event at Miller Motorsports Park which included an autox area. What a hoot! After getting the coilovers and enjoying the new ride I will never want to go with anything else.
My Fit was dead stock too.
My BMW 330ci had the H&R Sport Cup Kit (lowering springs and shocks/struts). This was a very nice setup as well. Stiffer and lower than stock but not very aggressive. I did an autox event with it like this. A little too much bodyroll but very nice for the daily drive.
So, in the past 20 years (whoa, I'm getting old) I've had many different cars and suspensions. These have all been my daily drivers. Obviously a track dedicated car will be a different discussion. For a daily car though, for me personally, I like a stiffer suspension than what the average lowering spring and sport shock can offer. Especially if you want to drive a car hard, like at an autox event or attacking some canyons, you're going to want stiffer springs and good quality dampening. This setup gets even more important when you run aggressive wide wheels and tires. I ran into this with my bimmer. I went aggressive in the rear with 18x9.5 +35mm and 265/35/18. After I first got the wheels/tires installed, I drove it to work. It was rubbing on some bigger bumps. I then invested in a heat gun and fender roller. I rolled the fenders and gave them a mini-pull. There was a mounting screw that I trimmed as well. All that work helped but I still heard a very slight "squeak" noise on big bumps. I found that the tire was rubbing on the edge of the bumper. If my suspension was stiffer there likely wouldn't be any tire to bumper contact due to the reduced suspension travel of a stiffer spring rate.
So, as I plan out what I want to do with the Civic, I will be getting some quality coilovers. There are many options for the 90's Civics. This chassis (88-00 civic, 94-01 integra) likely has THE largest selection of springs, shocks and coilovers than any other make/model. You can buy anything from $30 lowering springs or $200 "Racing Coilovers" from eBay all the way up to $5000 JRZ coilovers. For a street car like mine that will see mostly normal driving duties with some occasional aggressive driving and maybe 2 or 3 autox events each year it doesn't make sense to go very expensive. For me the sweet spot for street car coilovers is about the $1000-$1500 range. In this range you get quality construction for long lasting performance. You also get adjustability with dampening and ride height. This allows me to soften up the shocks for a trip down to St. George for a baseball tournament and then the next weekend stiffen it back up for an autox event. The ride height adjustability allows me to dial in the "look" or "stance" I want along with optimizing the setup for best handling and ground clearance. Having an adjustable setup you could go "show low" and raise it back up for daily driving. While that availability is there, I'm not interested in changing my ride height. I plan to get it where I want it and leave it there. Personally I don't want to have rubbing issues. I need to be able to put kids in the car along with some baseball gear. I had the rubbing issue with my bimmer and don't want to deal with that again. My personal preference on the "look" I want is not super slammed anyway. I prefer the "track" look with the top of the tire about even with the fender edge or a slight gap.
The most important first consideration is what brand are the coilovers. I don't want a no-name brand that has no history nor will back up any quality issues. Reliability and quality are important. In considering the options in the sweet spot of $1000-1500 one of the things I'm looking at is what the spring rates are for the different systems. My experience with the BC coilovers on my WRX was very positive. Those were 8k and 6k. I do remember reading that different suspension designs have different needs for a given performance level when it comes to spring rates. McPherson struct type design doesn't work the same as double-wishbone like my Civic has. I need to do more research to understand the differences. It has something to do with the geometry of the different designs and the "swing path" the specific geometries generate. Maybe I'll dive into that world a little and report back what I find.
 |
| Ground Control/Koni coilovers-tried and true go-to suspension for the Honda community for years! |
 |
| BC Type BR coilovers. BC coils have become a great entry level coilover option. I was happy with the set I had on my WRX. |
So, let's get to the options I'm looking at for the '99 EK Hatch, in no particular order.
First we have the big names who have been in the suspension tuning world for a long time. This includes companies like Buddy Club, Tein, Skunk2, Apex'i and Ground Control. For the Honda world, I know the Ground Control system is very popular and well liked one. It includes Eibach springs on an adjustable coilover design and uses Koni Yellow shocks with different valving. I found this system for sale in the $700-900 range. Just did a quick search and people are running various different spring rates.
 |
| K-Tuned K1 Coilovers-found them cheapest on jhpusa.com |
The Speed Academy guys ran K-Tuned K1 and K2 coilovers on their project Civic EK Coupe. This car is essentially the same as mine. The K1 kits I've found for $900 and run 10k and 6k spring rates with adjustable dampening. The K2 Circuit is 20k and 16k with different dampening valving. The K2 goes for about $1500-1700. I found a few decent video reviews on YouTube for both. While the "racer" in me would love to run the K2 I think its just too stiff for my needs. Plus its another $600-700 more cost. I am definitely trying to get the most for my money. I have other parts I want to do on my Civic in this first year or so. So, any money I can save will go a long way to the overall look and performance of my EK.
Another option is BC coilovers. With my success using the BCs on my WRX, I would be happy to get a set for my Civic.
I'll tell you, I'm leaning towards the K-tuned K1's. The price is right. $900 is very affordable for what I'm trying to achieve. Also, I really like what I've seen from K-Tuned on all their Honda parts. They are a company dedicated to Honda's and so for me, the fact that they specialize in this certain type of car means they're invested in making good quality parts. and are designing them specific for these cars. I also really respect the Speed Academy guys and their opinions on parts they test.
So, I am pretty much decided on the K1's.
I have more research to do on what alignment settings I should do. I went too aggressive on my WRX when I had the BC coilovers. I had too much wear from the toe out. I went with the suggestion of Innovative Garage. It was not an issue with their work or the alignment. I found that the tire wear was too much for my commute. It caused my tires to wear sooner than I wanted. I found that the camber was not necessarily the issue. The issue was the toe out (I ran 1/16" I believe). It helps in turn in but when normal driving, it scrubs the tires on the inside tread. So, for the EK I'm planning to be more in the 0 toe out. More to come on what alignment I should go with. I believe I'll need to get adjustable upper control arms to be able to adjust camber front and rear. If I stick to about a 2" drop I may not need to get camber adjustability. Like I said, more to come there.
No comments:
Post a Comment