OLD CROW 3V Mustang: JLT V3 CAI + SCT BDX Brenspeed customer 91oct Tune

 The fun continues! A week or 2 after getting the suspension installed, I ordered up the next round of parts for the Old Crow 3V Mustang Project!

Brenspeed is known for being one of the top 3V Mustang tuners and aftermarket providers. I ordered up their Intake + Tuner Combo kit. They have a few options and I chose to go for their most affordable set up, which includes the JLT Performance V3 Cold Air Kit and the SCT BDX programmer device. The out the door and shipped cost was $807 for the kit. After ordering, they send you an email and request some details about your car. I sent them all my mods along with rear gear ratio and tire diameter. 

If you didn't know, the 3V 4.6L Mustang GT absolutely requires a tune if you install a cold air kit on it. There are all kinds of warnings in the paperwork that came with the intake to ensure a tune is uploaded before running it. 

Here's a pic of the JLT intake installed along with some in-process pictures of the tune upload.

The intake install was fairly straight forward. The hardest part was mounting the heat shield bolt between the radiator and fan shroud. The PCV hose was easy as well. I took my time getting the intake mounted to the throttle body right. I wanted to make sure the seal was done well so there were no air leaks and so it won't move or fall off over time. Because the intake tube is plastic, the instructions said to not over tighten the clamps. The heat shield fits snug against the hood when you close the hood. I'll keep an eye on it over time to see if its wearing the underside of the hood at all. The overall look of the engine bay is much improved by installing the intake compared to the clunky and dirty/grungy stock airbox. I need to get those valve covers painted at some point in a nice bright Ford Blue!

So, I was a little nervous about the upload process. The instructions weren't actually very helpful. SCT provides a fold out map like page and it talks about like 6 different general processes. But, I followed the screen and clicked through and turned the key on and off when it told me and SUCCESS!!! Brent did instruct me to have a charger going on the car battery just in case. He said if the car battery doesn't have enough power during the upload and if something happens mid upload, you could brick the ECU or at least, put yourself in a difficult situation LOL. So I borrowed Corey's battery charge (again!) and the upload completed with no issues.

I went for a quick test drive when I finished at like 10pm. I could feel the car was snappier and more responsive and that it definitely had more power. The intake noise when you do a quick down shift blip or really dig into the throttle gives a sucking/whooshing sound now that wasn't there before.

So, here's the parts I bought, in addition to the Intake and tuner. I ordered up the LMR.com SVE branded axle back exhaust and the Pypes after cat X-pipe. This x pipe is clamped into place behind the factory cats. You have to cut the pipes behind the cats and clamp the x pipe on and connect it to the rest of the catback piping. So, its a hopped up version of the factory 2.5" exhaust system. 

I also picked up the MGW short shifter. It is supposed to arrive on Saturday. The shifter has adjustable throw. I've matched that up with a Billetworkz matte black weight shift knob in the "lightbulb" shape (Brent really wanted me to do the sphere shape but I felt it was too bulky). I also ordered the boot retainer piece, which comes in gloss black to help it look factory with the shift boot held in the proper position. It did cost $30 but hey, there's some showcar boi in me too! haha

Here's some pics of the SVE axle back mufflers from LMR.com. Here's a comparison of the 16 year old OEM mufflers. The SVE mufflers save 7 lbs each side. So far, the parts I've added have lost some weight overall. I need to find the weight of the GT500 arms because they are heavier than the OEM GT arms, but besides that, I've removed 60 lbs from the car but then added back in 8lbs of heavier wheel/tire combo (2lbs per corner).

I love the look of the new SVE mufflers. More aggressive, sporty look with the 4" tips and a nice shiny polished SS. 

You can see from these under car pictures that the smaller size of the mufflers give you more room underneath to work. 

While I was under the car, I took the time to wipe down with a soapy wash rag the underside. 

I also picked up this 8" short antenna. It only cost $15 and I think improves the look more than you'd think. That big tall antenna screamed 80's!

OLD CROW 3V Mustang: Suspension and Brake Upgrade and Test Drive!

 What a transformation!!! I'm so excited to share pictures of Old Crow all finished up! First, a beauty shot!

The car looks killerrrrrr!!!!! I just love it! It's exactly what I was hoping for and what I imagined in my head it could look like! The Vapor Silver is contrasted by the Gloss Graphite SVE R357 wheels and Gloss Black Front NuGeon (Brembo replacement calipers from Rockauto.com) 4 piston calipers with the 14" steel blank rotors (also from Rockauto). The brakes were fitted with PowerStop stainless steel brake lines which have a nice teflon outer layer that is a cool red textured color filled with Dot4 fluid and PowerStop "Track Day" pads up front. All of the brake parts were purchased from Rockauto.com, or as I like to call it, "Rockauto Speed Shop"! Ok, I'm getting ahead of ourselves...

Let's start by showing where we started with the front suspension.

So, we started with a 16 year old (2008) totally stock OEM front suspension and brake set up with 131,700 miles. The stock GT brakes are 2 piston calipers with 12.5" diameter rotors. 

Day #1 of the front end project was Wednesday March 6. We put in about 3 hours of work and we were able to essentially remove everything from both sides of the front end, including the front sway bar.

Day #2 was Thursday and again another 3 hours. We installed all the suspension, which included assembling the Koni single adjustable shocks to the Maximum Motorsports lowering springs from their "Road and Track Grip" kit to their MM caster/camber plates. We set the camber to the most negative setting that the OEM top strut opening would allow which ended being about -2.1 degrees. Caster was set towards the rear of the opening as far as we could go without affecting camber. We also installed the Eibach 36mm front sway bar with polyurethane bushings and GT500 lower control arms with poly bushing and upgraded (larger diameter) ball joint. 

Day #3 was Friday and we spent 4 hours installing new Ford Performance front hubs with ARP extended studs (which Corey painted with some black etching primer for rust protection during his lunch break), the full brake set up from Rockauto that I noted above in the intro. We installed the front SVE R357 wheels and Continental ECF tires for the first time and stood back and enjoyed the new view! To fit the 19x11 +50mm wheels upfront, I use a 19mm Cortex Racing black anodized wheel spacer. We then flushed/bled the brake system with the Dot4 fluid. We did a quick tape measure front toe alignment set at 0. 

Here are some great shots of the finished set up from behind the action and from the outside view. We set the bump steer kit so that the steering rod was parallel with the control arm. 

Here's the outside view of the set up. I do have to point out that the yellow and red parts go with the theme of P-51D "Old Crow" which had a yellow/red checkered nose livery. Perfect! I do have the idea to paint some lettering on the calipers that says "OLD CROW" but in "BREMBO" font, which you can download off the internet by the way. Future project haha

Here we are in the middle of bleeding brakes. Corey was in the car pushing the brake pedal, while I opened and closed the brake bleeder nut to allow brake fluid to empty into the collection baggy. 

Here was the first few minutes after we got the car all put together and on the ground. Corey's 2 post lift was incredibly valuable during the 4 day project. We had the car up and down many times, especially when dialing in the alignment.

Day #4 was on Saturday and we put another 2 hours in. In total we put in 12 hours each, or about 24 total hours between the 4 days. Corey and his brother bought a string alignment set up as Corey's brother is building a 1992 Chevy Camaro resto-mod and are doing much of the work themselves. While I was enjoying baseball games on Saturday, Corey was setting up the string equipment. Before doing the final alignment, stickaxlegang guru Ashley (Tribar Racing social media handle) pointed out to me that the passenger side flag bolt for the panhard bar was on the wrong side. After measuring, we need to move the rear end like 2-3mm toward the passenger side. So, we unbolted the panahard bar, moved it just a little. It needed one more round of adjustment and we had it centered up at ride height perfectly, within probably 1/2 a mm or less. It was almost perfect. We torqued up the mounting bolt, on the correct side this time and moved on to the front alignment.

The most tedious and time consuming part of the string alignment set up is getting the strings centered and level all around the car. Then you take measurements at the front and rear of the front wheels to check toe. We went through multiple iterations, lifting the car up and making minor toe adjustments. We got the toe to be right at 0, within less than 1/2 a mm or less. 

We went for a quick test drive and it drove straight and smooth. There was no rubbing at full lock (I'm really not low enough to be rubbing). The clearance between the inside of the wheels and the struts is very small, maybe 5-10mm or so. 

After confirming no weird noises or vibrations, we did some brake pad bedding. I should have taken a picture of the wheels after I got home. They were VERY dusty haha. The car stops great and the pedal feel was very solid. 

This morning, I couldn't help myself and went out for some beauty shots and a quick drive to Kaysville on the new highway. I felt like I was Lightning McQueen in the "Cars" movie driving on the brand new smooth road in my fully rebuilt Mustang. 

I'm just so happy with the results. The car looks incredible! The driving so far is proving to be very flat and the steering feels very sharp and responsive to inputs. It's going to be a blast at autox and track days! 

I'll wrap this post up with this Before and After. Or as the kids like to say "How it started...How it's going..." 

The difference is night and day visually and performance wise. The S197 Mustang was the last solid rear axle version of the car. After being the same basic suspension design from 1964.5 through 2014, I consider the S197 platform the "Modern Trans Am" Mustang. It has the same look and feel as the 67-70 Mustang Fastbacks but with modern improvements, such as: overhead cam/electronic fuel injected/variable valve timing V8 power and efficiency with a 5 speed (or 6 speed) overdrive transmission, bigger 4 wheel disc brakes (with ABS) and the modern crash safety structure (which improves chassis rigidity and thus handling). I think the 2005-09 Mustang was the best rendition of the late model Mustangs achieving that Retro-Futurism look. They nailed it! 

Stay tuned, because there's more to come. I have the "Hechtspeed Aero" front canards to install. I need to order up the next round of parts, which include Brenspeed JLT V3 Intake and SCT BDX tuner (about $780 total) along with an SVE axle back exhaust (about $300). I need to replace the 3ft long radio antenna with a short stubby version ($20). I want to do an MGW short shifter as well. Then down the road, I'm contemplating a Corbeau bucket seat. That means I'll have to ditch the heated leather seats. It will certainly help me take advantage of the improved grip and handling, but I'll lose the luxury haha.

Future future upgrades will include some kind of front splitter, heat extractor vents in the hood (need to decide if I want to keep the faux hood scoop or not). 1 piece aluminum driveshaft, maybe 3.73 gears (and paint the surface rusted rear axle and maybe get a nice aluminum diff cover). 

I still need to paint the replacement passenger fender and rear bumper I got as well. Corey and I will do that in his garage during warmer months (and after baseball season).